copy Excellent Adventures in Egypt

Enter here to share Joni's adventures living and working in Cairo courtesy of the U.S. Fulbright cultural exchange program. Our ability to reach unity in diversity will be the beauty and test of our civilization. - Mahatma Ghandi

11/27/2004

Happy Thanksgiving!

I’m ensconced in my Cairo flat enjoying a traditional T-Day meal of chicken soup and coconut rice. All right, so it’s not Thanksgiving fare - at least it isn’t grilled chicken and tahini. Egyptians are not noticeably adventuresome eaters. They seem content to eat the same set of basic dishes day after day, especially during Ramadan. (Menu: kofta, kebab, chicken or pigeon, grape leaves stuffed with meat, béchamel lasagna with meat, moussaka with meat – vegetarianism is not a concept here – accompanied by rice, tahina, hummus, babaghannugh, and salata baladi - tomatoes & cucumbers in olive oil/lemon dressing.) Mind you, I like Egyptian cooking, but I also like some diversity. (This is the girl child who began her cooking career at the tender age of 10, convinced that was the only way to assure access to the foods she wanted to eat.) These last couple of weeks I’ve been hungering for food that the Prophet would not recognize. Cairo does have some ethnic restaurants. But their cuisine generally gets adapted to Egyptian tastes in an attempt to lure them in. (It doesn’t work – most patrons of ethnic restaurants are foreigners.) And the resulting mélange of tastes can be quite…extraordinary. I’ve had any number of Egyptians tell me that they don’t like Chinese food; and I can understand this, given my sampling of the “good” Chinese restaurants. (Of course, most Egyptians have never really tasted Chinese food, given my sampling…) But sometimes the urge for food that is not Egyptian becomes so strong that you have to do something. So I’ve developed the Ethnic Food Lovers Guide to non-Egyptian cooking. First, have no expectations about what you are about to eat. Don’t think “I’m going to have Chinese food” or – heaven forbid – “this is Kung Pao chicken.” Approach each dish as a unique and never-to-be duplicated experience. What interesting taste combinations will we encounter this time? Corn and no tomato sauce on the pizza? How unusual! Sweet & sour fried potatoes? How creative! Calamari in everything? What abundance! Back in Boulder, I’m planning dinner at the Orchid Pavilion on January 16, Chez Thuy on the 17th, Juanita’s on the 18th and buttermilk biscuits & grits at Dot’s Diner every day for a week. Having got that little rant off my chest, …er, stomach… It’s been a busy month here in Lake Food-Be-Gone. Between out of town visitors, multiple converging work projects and the occasional unexpected happening, I’ve been breathing pretty hard round the bends. This will be a fairly random, stream of consciousness posting - let’s start with the “unexpected.” Remember the cat? We’ve been establishing a certain rapport over the past weeks. She’s figured out that scratches are ok, strokes are even better and if she rubs against a shin she’s likely to get both. She’s also decided that beds and eating regularly are really fine, and that flats have lots of little nooks to perch and watch the strange goings-on of the flat human. On Tuesday, the cat demonstrated just how comfortable she’s become by giving birth to 5 kittens in the flat. Just what I needed, hamdulillah. (At the Fulbright orientation, they told us to expect anything.) She and the brood are now tucked up in a cosy reed basket on the bottom shelf of the wardrobe. Being a responsible American pet guardian, my girls are always spayed, so I haven’t been around newborn kittens since I was a child. I swear the little beasties get bigger by the hour. It’s finally autumn here…or maybe we jumped right into winter. Days are cool and breezy – sometimes downright cold – and nights are definitely nippy. I’ve pulled out my fleece and slippers, put the comforter on the bed and even plugged the heater in a time or two. Brrrr! Last Friday I got a marvelous treat: I got to go on a 24 km, all day hike in Wadi Degla, a protected area. I’ve been wanting to visit this bit of open space, just outside of Cairo, but haven’t been able to find any information about it. While searching for information, I came across a group called Sahara Safaris on the web (SaharaSafaris@yahoogroups.com) They describe themselves as “Just a group of enthusiastic travelers who like to enjoy the beautiful natural scenes of the desert, Egypt and the world. Some of us go to extended walks, and journeys in the desert (learning stars names, visiting monuments, etc).” I signed up and asked for help in finding Wadi Degla – immediately got messages from half a dozen people inviting me to join in several activities, including 3 different hikes to Degla. Great folks – mostly young professionals, just discovering nature and their love of the outdoors. They remind me of the Colorado Mountain Club 25 years ago, when folks were just figuring out how to hike, mapping out trails, putting together hiking etiquette, etc. I had a great time hiking with a group of 15, half of whom made it the full 24 km, up and back through an amazing canyon landscape. I made several new friends, and it felt so good to be outside in the wilderness for an entire day - the silence was deafening. We finished the hike in the moonlight, a wonderfully mystic way to end the day. I look forward to more adventures with the group in future. Matt and I got a real treat on our visit to Luxor. In late October I finally got to meet Dr. Moustafa Fouda, the director of the Egyptian Environmental Affairs’ Agency’s Nature Conservation Sector, the folks who manage Egypt’s protected areas. Dr. Moustafa is passionate about protecting biodiversity and a hard-driving manager (reminds me a lot of Boogie Bob Duprey, for you EPAers). Anyway, we see the world pretty much the same way and have started doing some project scheming together. Aswan has a small protected area among the islands in the Nile, and Dr. Moustafa asked me to call up the director and ask for a report on what’s going on. So I duly called, and Matt tagged along to my meeting with Dr. Mahmoud Hassieb and some of his staff. Very interesting meeting: we heard about the area’s history (including having to call in the army to protect rangers from angry locals in the early days) and the wonderful educational programs they are doing today. Then, on Sunday, we got a tour of the area, with more history and ecology – fascinating. Saluga and Gazal, the two islands that make up the area, contain some of the last remnants of native vegetation communities that used to exist all along the Nile. It’s rich habitat for both local and migrating bird species. I got to see a brilliant green beaeater and a flock of Egyptian geese (the same species we see on the circa 2500 BCE Meidum geese wall panel, for the Egyptologists among us) – quite a thrill! I’m thinking of using this area as one of my case studies, and have done a draft write up with pix. You can access it on my Yahoo briefcase at http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/joniteter if you’re interested. We also visited with Dr. Hussein Tahtawy, director of the EEAA pollution control side of the house in Aswan. Eman and I have been putting together a case study on the environmental impacts of Nile cruises, visiting with my EEAA folks in Cairo to find out what’s going on with these floating hotels. Conveniently, EEAA and about 6 other agencies have been engaged this year in multi-media inspections of the industry, so they had lots of info. to share. Aswan has a very active governor, and the region has put together a 5 year action plans for environmental and socio-economic projects, which Dr. Tahtawy shared with us. Very interesting reading. I have some great pix of cruise ships not hooked up to their sewage stations (yech!) and the riparian waste transfer station which I will be happy to share, on request, with afficianados of waste. Matt also got to tag along to a meeting with Kirk Ellis, the project manager for the consulting firm working for USAID on the lead remediation project that brought the EEAA folks to Denver last year. They have got the smelters closed down, have completed the blood lead work (grim results – lots of impacted kids) are now moving into remediation. Kirk says that testing on soils at the smelter facility came back 75% lead – and the owner has helpfully started self-remediation, digging up several hundred cubic yards of soil that have gone no-one-knows-where. Some stories are the same the world over. Through Sahara Safaris, I have also hooked up with a young powerhouse named Nina Prochazka who works for North-South Consultants, a group specializing in sustainability projects. Nina is project manager for a set of eco-tourism development projects in the Fayoum. They have worked with local residents and protected area rangers to develop hiking and camel riding itineraries; helped to empower and train local ecology, birding and camel guides; helped two groups of potters (one is all young folks) in impoverished villages to market their wares; and wrapped all this up together in a well-presented ecotourism “product” that is now being marketed to tour operators and travel agents. Pretty impressive! We are working on a program to bring the Helwan Tourism faculty and students to the Fayoum, since it’s a great place to learn what eco-tourism is all about. During the first week of Matt’s visit, our friend Alison Tormey was here from London. Alison’s visit was most welcome (and not only because she brought an entire suitcase full of chocolate chip cookies.) She and Matt did some touristing together, and I got to join them for a couple of days. We visited Saqqara, my favorite pyramid complex, wandered the Islamic quarter, visited the ancient Christian/Jewish quarter in Old Cairo, and spent a jam-packed weekend visiting all my favorite haunts in Luxor. (Of course, the best tombs in the Valley of Kings are still closed, but we did get into Thutmose IV, that wonderfully twisty, deep-into-the-earth early 18th dynasty tomb just made for bad horror movies.) It was great to be a tourist and get to see some antiquities! As a lark, we also went to the Sound & Light show at Giza. It was even worse than I remembered – what melodrama! But the visit was made entirely worthwhile by the bagpipe and drum corps, outfitted in full Pharaonic regalia, strutting up and down the aisles behind their drum major playing traditional Egyptian favorites like Auld Lang Syne. Who comes up with this stuff anyway? This week and last, I’m helping out with interviews for Egyptian students who have applied to come to the US under Fulbright. It’s been fascinating. All kinds of disciplines are represented (political science, linguistics, education, communication, Egyptology, literature, sociology, even holography, which I didn’t know was an academic discipline) and students range from brilliant to mediocre. We’ve had some pampered scions of the privileged class, many diligent students from the middle class and a number of very impressive working professionals who’ve had very few opportunities and have made something of themselves anyway. There are a very limited number of grants, and the final decisions will be very, very hard. I’m the only “panelist” who’s sitting in on all the interviews, and I’m meeting some very interesting folks from the Egyptian academic world and the US Embassy along the way. (Yesterday’s panel included a career diplomat who’s lived most of his life in the Arab world and spent last year in Iraq – you should hear his Paul Bremer stories!) Last week I did my second lecture on transportation impacts to Dr. Mona’s transportation class – it rained that day (real rain!) and half of the students went home. Rain, it seems, is another occasion when Cairo stops. I’ve got one final lecture coming up in this series (on Nile cruises) next Monday, then a “workshop” for Helwan faculty on protected areas with Dr. Fouda the following Wednesday. I’m doing a piece on Yellowstone, relating its evolution and current issues to challenges here in Egypt. Dr. Moustafa’s presentation will likely be the first exposure to Egypt’s protected areas for most of the folks at Helwan. And Moshira has asked me to do a “design” lecture at the Faculty of Fine Arts, which we’ll talk about tomorrow. Oy, vey, I need to be cloned. (Maybe that’s what the cat was trying do?) I’ll close with that bit of inter-species helpfulness and get myself back to work! Enjoy the cold and snow back home…

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